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Travel> Not
Understood
How Not To Be
Understood
By Shawn Lomax
Published July 2002
Speaking Spanish has its disadvantages,
as well as its dangers. Having a grip on
the language, you get too confident. You
lose your wariness and your ability to insist
through gestures. You tend to think that
people understand you, and, worse still,
they come to the conclusion that you understand
them. And you end up with a mop and bucket,
looking like a half-shaved hearthrug. Or
at least I did. You see this week my humble
adequacy with the language has left me washing
the entrance and between floors of my building,
and with the worst haircut of my life.
Recently paid, I found myself deep in the
conviction that a haircut was to be had
before it was too late and the money got
spent on other, sweeter things. Having decided,
and properly launched into the act, I was
frustrated to find the stairs blocked by
two wizened neighbors in full flood. Not
even seeming to notice, they simply absorbed
me into the tide of their complaint.
With pinched suspicion spilling over into
suspicious hostility, my elderly distressed
housecoat of a downstairs neighbor directed
her crumpled stocking complexion at me in
a burst of "Were not gypsies,
you know. We all have to clean the stairs."
Taken aback several meters, I flailed for
an adequate response. Something superior
but sharp, along the lines of "Well
you can mention it at the next meeting of
the Comunidad, which would incidentally
be my first, thank you ladies. Goodbye and
pleased to meet you," would have been
good. Something subtle in defense of gypsies
would have been better. But instead I was
an immediately sullen seven year old, angry
to be told that he hadnt cleaned his
room properly, when he had cleaned it. He
had. He had. But really he hadnt,
and hated to be told it, so he just jammed
his fists in his pockets and sulked his
way through the harangue without looking
at them.
The fact that the stairway of the building
is, strictly speaking, unclean able, doesnt
really come into it. The decrepit seediness
of the place was one of the things that
first attracted me to it, with its banisters
a fragile wrought iron memory of better,
nineteenth century times, walls bulging
south and flaking paint like a shabby but
distinguished bachelor whose dandruff is
somehow an acceptable part of his condition.
Were this not enough, next door is a building
site and the windows of the stairwell lack
glass, so keeping the cracked raw meat colored
floor tiles clean would be a permanent occupation,
as well as a waste of time. But try explaining
that to two old marujas who have dedicated
their lives to the extinction of the stain,
whose human pride consists in the inhuman
perfection of an interior living space X
meters squared, who not only scrub and polish
every imaginable surface daily, but consider
it an aberration from the norm and a disgusting
slippage into decadence should others fail
to follow suit. You think Im exaggerating?
Try living here. Cleaning is more than a
profession for those without employment;
its a passion that suffers no competition,
except perhaps complaining. Particularly
complaining about how filthy their neighbors
are. Particularly me, because Im here
and I give signs of understanding them.
They cant complain to my landlord
because hes never there. And my blond,
eight foot, unfortunately male Dutch flat
mate would just shrug in that blond good
natured Dutch way, effectively explaining
that he didnt understand a word. Which
left muggins, who understood without being
able to retaliate, blushing his way down
the stairs, furiously exercising his esprit
descalier all the way to the hairdressers.
My state of frustration-enhanced ineptitude
may have made me forget the one thing Ive
learnt about getting your hair cut: If you
dont like the hairstyle of the person
proposing to adjust yours, better go somewhere
else. In this case it was so obvious as
to be laughable in retrospect. And, given
the rate my hair grows, that will be in
a month or two.
There was a thunderstorm going on at the
time, and that might have distracted or
excited him. Come to think of it, there
was something of the Gene Wilder in Young
Frankenstein about him, and more of the
Igor. His hair rose up in tufts around his
head like dust thrown up by the impact of
an explosion. His eyes followed me remotely
through glasses unfashionable before there
were fashions in such things. But he nodded
at the end of my explanation so I thought
he understood.
Even in English I never feel like Im
asking for something normal in a hairdressers.
And this sense of insecurity, compounded
by the uncertainty of the translation "just
give it shape", and together with what
little I know of Spanish grooming tendencies
"not classical" , "more modern",
conspired to leave me somewhere between
Hitler youth and the chorus from Grease.
I should have known better. I should have
left when I could. But I was suffering that
strange inertia of the barbers chair,
when youve already surrendered to
stronger opinions about how you are going
to look. Anyway, he had seemed to accept
that I didnt want to look very different.
And then he took a razor and shaved the
hair off the back of my head. Then he did
the same to the sides. And, after fussing
merrily at the top with a scissors for some
minutes, he slapped down the rough edges
with gel, smiled, and handed me a clothes
brush. And that was it.
Back on the street the rain washed a sticky
itchy mixture of gel and hair ends down
the back of my neck. Shop windows reflected
a derangement of ominous spiky bits. Once
home the brutal honesty of the bathroom
mirror confirmed that my head was now host
to an irregular and inexpert wigwam. All
of which made washing dust off the stairs
seem like not such a bad idea, or at least
a release for an accumulation of frustrations
that may have brought me closer to my neighbors
without persuading me that its a good
place to be. I doubt theyve noticed
the stairs have been cleaned, but at least
my new look gives them something else to
criticize.
Shawn
Lomax is a writer of sketch pieces and reviews.
He lives and works in Barcelona, Spain.
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