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Wave of the future
A new awareness
of chemical strengtheners and natural alternatives
By Diana Dudas
Published February 2004
| Although relaxing is
a huge part of the black hair care industries
income, sales from relaxers ,last year were
down more than 5%. People are opting to go
au naturel and there is now a definite trend
towards natural hair. Later on we will look
at non-chemical options (afro is definitely
back); But for those who prefer the option
of sleek shiny straight hair, lets answer
some of your concerns on your choice of relaxers
and how they will affect your hair. |
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One of your first concerns
will be the change of your hairs pH level. Hair
in a healthy state should have a pH of between
4.5 - 5.5. Hairs natural oil, sebum, has a pH
of 5. On the pH scale of between 1 - 14, 1 being
the most acid and 14 being the most alkaline relaxers
have a pH of between 8.4 and 14, thus changing
your hairs naturally slightly acid state to alkaline.
This will cause the hair to feel, dry coarse and
in extreme cases you may experience hair breakage.
It is therefore imperative to take good care of
your newly relaxed hair by the use of pH balanced,
treatment shampoos and conditioners.
Once the straightening solution
has been applied to the hair, it will penetrate
into the cortex (middle layer of hair), where
it will react with the di -sulfide bonds, also
known as the cysteine bonds. These bonds join
together the protein chains, which are responsible
for the structural stability and strength of the
hair. This reaction will cause the protein chains
to be broken and allow the hair to soften and
take on a new form. Once this has occurred the
hair is rinsed free of the solution so as not
to allow any further softening to take place.
The neutralizing process is then needed to repair
the broken protein chains allowing the hair to
be fixed into it’s new straight form. Chemical
reactions can still occur up until 48 hours after
your chemical service, so it is wise to wait at
least that long before shampooing your hair.
There are basically three
types of hair relaxers. They are sodium hydroxide,
guanidine hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate:
Sodium hydroxide is the strongest of relaxers
and is often called the lye relaxer. It is a very
harsh, caustic chemical, and should only be used
on coarse, extremely curly hair. The pH level
is between 10 - 14 which means it has the most
potentially harmful relaxer. And if not used with
proper care can cause soreness of the scalp and
dry, brittle hair.
No-lye relaxers are either
Guanidine hydroxide (a combination of calcium
hydroxide cream with guanidine carbonate), OR
Ammonium thioglycolate. These have a pH of between
9 - 9.5, and are considered to be less damaging
than the sodium hydroxide or lye relaxers. However
it is still vital to give your hair the same TLC
that you would give your hair with a sodium hydroxide
relaxer.
A recent breakthrough in
hair straightening is known as the thermal ionic
or bio ionic system. Using an ammonium thioglycolate
substance, with the aid of a flat iron maintained
at 170° - 230°C, this process promises
to transform your hair into permanently "pin-straight
" hair, that will be soft, shiny and frizz-free.
For this service your hair
needs to be at least four inches long. You will
have to completely grow out your relaxer. The
service takes about three hours for short hair
and 4 -5 hours for longer hair. Because of the
time involved it is obviously a costly service.
However the upside is that it only needs to be
done every six months.
As with all other relaxers
do not wash your hair for at least 48 hours. And
use products that are pH balanced. Also with this
particular service, it is not advised that you
bleach or hi lite your hair at all afterwards.
It is advisable when contemplating
getting a chemical relaxer that you go to a hair
stylist that is well respected in has plenty of
experience. On your first visit to them, they
should allow extra time to consult with you, check
the porosity, elasticity and texture of your hair.
Your scalp should also be checked for abrasions.
This will allow them to determine the best type
of relaxer for you, after which time a strand
test should be done, to confirm their decision.
During this time, records should be taken for
future reference, and suggestions on after treatment
hair care should be given. You should also be
informed of how often you would need to return
to the salon, so as to maintain your relaxed hair.
An exciting new approach
to retexturizing hair are the non-chemical temporary
strengtheners also known as a smoothing glaze.
This innovative type of styling lotion allows
you to choose when you want to go straight or
stay curly, by temporarily relaxing curls. They
are designed to straighten, reduce frizz and protect
hair from heat. Look for natural ingredients such
as Matricaria and wheat proteins. These lotions
are normally humidity resistant also. For those
who prefer the natural approach this is a great
way to go:
With the increase in demand
for natural alternatives to the 6 weekly regime
of hair relaxing, there is obviously an increase
of natural hair care experts. Offering new services
in the maintenance of natural hair styles, such
as the afro, , two strand twists, coils, braiding
and locs.
As part of your natural
heritage you may have learnt these techniques
already. If not natural hair care experts are
always willing to pass on their knowledge, of
maintaining your look. Or you could maintain your
natural look my a monthly visit to your salon.
Natural hair care
is the wave of the future . Women are becoming
more aware of how harsh chemicals are on their
hair and how toxic and harmful they can be to
their health. There are more natural hair care
salons now available and there is a new awareness
about natural hair.
© 2003
Author Diana
Dudas G.C.H.S.R.H.
is an expert with more than 28 years experience
in the beauty industry. She has answered over
2000 questions for allexperts.com and has had
her work published in many well-respected beauty
magazines both online and off.
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